Part 3 Southern Costa Rica: Other Cities to Visit

The beach at Drake Bay.

The beach at Drake Bay. Photo by José R.

Here are some of the other major cities in the southern part of Costa Rica:

Drake Bay

Located at the northern part of the Osa Peninsula, Drake Bay is 90 miles south of San José.  Despite the fact that Drake Bay has seen a huge increase in population recently, it still is one of the more isolated places in Costa Rica.  There is a small air strip here.  It can also be reached now by car via a dirt road from the highway during the dry season.  Many still reach Drake Bay via water.  The wilds of the Osa Peninsula lay south of Drake Bay, including Corcovado National Park.

This is a place for the adventurous explorer.  There are naturalists, fisherman, and scuba divers here. The Río Agujitas is a great place for small boats, canoeing or swimming.  There are tide pools, spring fed rivers, deserted beaches and dense primary tropical rainforests.  It offers a paradise for bird watchers.  It is also a great place to get away from it all. This may be a good place to visit if you want to see Corcovado National Park.

It was named Drake Bay or Bahía Drake after Sir Francis Drake who is believed to have anchored here in 1579.  Rumors swirl that this is the location of one of the British pirate’s fabled hidden treasures.

Playa Pavones

Located just 25 miles south of Golfito, Playa Pavones, one of the best places for surfing, is famous for having one of the longest rideable waves in the world. As such, this town is filled with surfers year round, although the most consistent waves occur during the rainy season, April to September here.  You can rent surf boards and boogie boards, although many bring their own. Take surfing lessons.  Ride horses and bikes as well.  The beach is rocky and the ocean bottom is cobblestoned where the waves break, so you may want to check with the locals for a good place to swim.  Some people like the Río Claro for swimming.

Pavones offers scenic black sand beach with incredible views across the Golfo Dulce.  This is a great location to watch sunsets.

Playa Zancudo

Playa Zancudo is located 22 miles south of Golfito and is perfect for people that really want to get away from it all.  The six mile beach is one of the calmest on this coast and offers a good place to swim, especially at the northern end.  The best times to swim are two hours before and after high tide.

Kayaking is also popular here and you can arrange a boat trip to the nearby mangrove estuary where you can see birds and crocodiles.  Others may wish to fish.  Zacundo is home to one of the best sport fishing operations at the Zacundo Lodge.

Puerto Jiménez

Puerto Jiménez is located on the Osa Peninsula 22 miles west of Golfito by water or 56 miles by road.  It is the largest town on the Osa Peninsula and boasts an airport.  It has the feel of a frontier town and is really the last civilized outpost before going off the grid deep into the jungle. There are internet cafes so this is the place to send your e-mails and stock up on supplies.

The National Park Service has a headquarters here and they can answer questions about hiking trails in the Corcovado National Park.

The people you meet here are an eclectic mix of jungle gold-panners, budget backpackers and wealthy eco-tourists.  It is hot and humid here and mosquitos are present so remember your bug spray.

Part 2 Southern Costa Rica: Corcovado National Park

Corcovado National Park. Photo by José R.

National Geographic has called Corcovado National Park “the most biologically intense place on Earth”.  On October 31, 1974 Costa Rica set aside 263 square miles in the southwestern portion of the Osa Peninsula, to form Corcovado National Park.   In a country where over 25 percent of the land is protected in National Parks or preserves, many consider Corcovado the crown jewel of the park system.  Corcovado is the last original great tract of moist tropical rain forest in Meso America.

While the principal habitat is the montane or cloud forest which covers approximately half the park, a wide variety of other habitats are present including palm swamp, prairie forest, alluvial plains forest and mangroves.   This creates an environment to see a wide variety of plants and animals.

The altitude varies considerably as well.  Corcovado boasts a virtually uninterrupted sandy beach which extends for 20 kilometers.  There are cliffs and pocket beaches at both the northern and southern ends of the park.  The low plains feature creeks and rivers.  The uplands climb to 2,444 feet and the highest mountains are Rincón and Mueller.

There is intensive tectonic activity here.  Up to ten tremors a day sometimes occur in the region, and crustal elevations have been observed.  Landslides do occur in the upland areas.

There are over 500 tree species in Corcovado.  In 1993 the cedro caracolita, a new genus and species was discover.

Tamandua anteater in the Corcovado National Park Photo by José R.

There are 140 species of mammals including 15 of the 30 endangered species found in Costa Rica.  This is the best place in Costa Rica to try to see some of these endangered species.  Some of the species that people come to see are the wild cats of Costa Rica, the jaguar, the jaguarundi, the little spotted cat, the ocelot, the margay and the puma. Corcovado is one of the best places in the world to possibly see a jaguar in the wild.  All four of monkey species in Costa Rica can be found here  including the endangered Central American Squirrel Monkey,  White faced Capuchin, Mantled Howler and Geoffroy’s Spider monkey.  There is both the two and three toed sloth to be found.  There is a relatively large population of the endangered Baird’s Tapir.   Both the Northern Tamandua and Silky Anteater may be seen.  The southern river otter, and the crab-eating raccoon call Corcovado home.  One of the most common mammals is the White nosed Coati.  They are often found on the beach feeding on the moon crabs.  The best place to find many of the animals is along the coastal route.

The rare Squirrel monkey is found in Corcovado National Park.

The rare Central American Squirrel monkey is found in Corcovado National Park. Photo by Linda De Volder

Many visitors also come for the birds as there are 367 different species found here.  The rare harpy eagle which is almost extinct may still breed in parts of Corcovado.  Other highly sought after birds include the scarlet macaw, Baird’s trogon, black-beliied wren, black-hooded antshrike, black-cheeked ant-tanager, black-headed brush finch, brown pelican, fiery-billed aracari, spotted-crown euphonia and the yellow billed cotin.

White nosed Coati. Photo by Dirk van der Made.

There are 40 types of freshwater fish and large populations of the American crocodile and the spectacled caiman. In the protected marine waters you can find 11 types of coral, several species of dolphin, three species of whale including the humpback whale and bull sharks.  The Long Llorona beachis also nesting  grounds for several species of turtles including Hawkbills, Leatherback, Green Turtle and the Pacific Ridley.

This is just a sample of the variety of animals that are found here.

The park offers four ranger stations.  You can camp here or stay in basic cabins.  While driving in the park is impossible there are a variety of trails.  You can hire a naturalist guide or come by boat from Drake Bay.  There is also an airstrip in the park for charter planes.  It is best to visit in the dry season which is January to April.

Part 1 Southern Costa Rica: Golfito, Costa Rica’s Innovative Solution to Losing a Large Employer

Map of Costa Rica

Map of Costa Rica.

Located in southern Costa Rica, 212 miles south of the capital San Jose, Golfito (little bay) is located on the Golfo Dulce (sweet bay).  This bay is formed by the Osa Penninsula. Golfito is located on the mainland and the area forms a perfect harbor. 

United Fruit Company realized the excellent potential of the location and in 1938 built a major port here. By 1955, 90 percent of the bananas from Costa Rica departed on the Great White Fleet of banana boats from Golfito.  During this period the population of Golfito swelled with immigrants. It is estimated that 15,000 Guanacastecos, people from what is now the northern province of Costa Rica came to work on the plantations.  Unfortunately, according to the Insight Guides to Costa Rica, “United Fruit or ‘Manita Yunai’, not the most benevolent of companies, was seen to be funneling profits out of Costa Rica and into the pockets of rich North American stockholders and became the symbol for hated Yankee imperialism.” After a series of strikes, declining foreign markets, rising export taxes and banana disease United Fruit left Costa Rica in 1985.  Costa Rica was then left with a large southern town in a depressed state.

As a result of the economic hardship caused by United Fruit’s departure, some plantations started to produce African palm oil.  Some employees returned home and others found jobs farming or as fisherman.

A view of Golfito (foreground) and the Golfo Dulce (beyond the peninsula), in southern Costa Rica. Photo by Dirk van der Made.

In 1990, Costa Rica tried an experiment and made Golfito a duty free zone. Every citizen and resident has the opportunity to visit and purchase a limited amount of goods duty free twice a year. You can combine your amount with another family member over the age of 18 to purchase a larger item.  This offers a savings of between 40 to 50 percent on many products that would be purchased in San Jose. (Yes, tax on imports is high in Costa Rica.)  As a result, Golfito is a very popular location for purchase of large items such as electronics and appliances. A delivery service is available.

There is a catch, in order to receive this huge discount; you have to remain in Golfito for at least 24 hours. This means you will be spending a night in one of the local hotels or bed and breakfasts, eating in the restaurants and enjoying the surrounding area.

It is relatively easy to get to Golifto.  You can use public transportation and take the Tracopa bus. They boast an airport and both Nature Air and Sansa fly there.  Tour operators take groups to Golfito or you can drive there yourself.

Golfito as a result is making a comeback.  As an added bonus, both tourists and citizens alike are discovering the natural beauty of southern Costa Rica. In upcoming weeks, I will be discussing some of the amazing places to visit around Golfito.

Grocery Shopping in Costa Rica Part 2

Small grocery store in town.

In Grocery Shopping in Costa Rica Part 1, I discussed big grocery stores and medium grocery stores in neighborhoods and smaller towns.

But people shop for food in various ways in Costa Rica.  Pulperías is the name for a small grocery store that you may find in Costa Rica.  This can range from the small grocery store in town to what is akin to an annex of a home.  Often in smaller neighborhoods, one family will have a small grocery in something like an attached garage.  This is really handy in a country where two car families are rare.  If you forget something you can just run down to the local pulperias and get it.  Children often purchase snacks here as well after school.

Small grocery attached to a home. Photo by Donald Farris.

Most people when doing their shopping walk along the main street and purchase items from the specialty stores and then go to the grocery for items they didn’t find.

Like elsewhere in the world, bakeries or panaderia are popular.  In our small town there are two.  While you can purchase “Bimbo “ bread in the grocery store – Costa Rica’s equivalent of Wonder bread, specialty bread, donuts and bakery items are often purchased at the panaderia.  One of the bakeries in our town is traditional and I believe has been here for quite some time.  A newcomer in our town is Musmanni, a bakery franchise from the Central Valley of Costa Rica. It is more modern so it will be interesting to see which survives – hopefully both.

The older bakery in town Panadaria Tutu. Photo by Donald Farris.

Musmanni, a franchise from Costa Rica. Photo by Donald Farris

Fruit and

Vegetables can often be purchased at road side stands or in farmers markets.  They can also be purchased at a fruterias or a fruit store.  In our town the best place to buy your fruits and vegetables is at the Frutas and Verduras (Fruit and Vegetable) store.

Frutas and Verduras Arenal the place to buy your fruits and vegetables. Photo by Donald Farris.

There is a carniceria or butcher shop in town.  Dogs like to hang out in front – hopping for a hand out.  I’m a vegetarian, so I haven’t purchased anything here, but I frequently stop and pet the dogs on my way down the street.

Carniceria El Lago or the butcher shop in town. Photo by Donald Farris.

There are also Pescaderia or fish stores.  We don’t have one in our town but towns  on the ocean often do.

Shopping this way is much more of a social event.  You walk down the street talking to people.  You know the shop owners and you talk with them.  Even if your Spanish isn’t very good and their English is less than perfect, you greet each other warmly, ask how they are and smile.  It is a great opportunity for me to practice my Spanish as well.  Many Costa Ricans are trying to learn English and know how hard it is to learn another language.  They are patient, kind and helpful with your language struggles.  They may also ask you for words in English.  It makes for a very close knit town

But this isn’t the only way you purchase your groceries.  My father-in-law is fond of telling us that Costa Rica reminds him of the U.S. fifty years ago.  While Costa Rica is very modern and technologically forward in some aspects, in other ways respects he is right.  Vendors make house calls.  Every week the German Bakery comes to our home to sell us a variety of breads, fabulous homemade pretzels, cinnamon rolls, cheesecake and a variety of other goodies.  The fish man also brings fresh fish once a week.  We have a cheese person who shows up regularly with a supply of goat or cow cheese to buy.  Some vendors will take custom orders for the type of cheese you want.  They accommodated my husband with hot peppers in a goat cheese.  Vendors selling eggs come as well.

But not all vendors come to you.  You also learn who sells what out of their home.  Many times you go there and buy from them.  Even before e-mail and facebook, the coconut telegraph worked well at getting out the message out about who was making what for sale.